Remodeling Costs On Cape Cod

We frequently get inquiries about the cost of remodeling projects here on Cape Cod. Given that every house, project and homeowner is different, it can be challenging to provide a specific number without going through the process of looking at every aspect of a project which is time consuming.  Design, selecting products and fixtures, calling suppliers and trade partners.  Which can on average take about 8-12 hours on a small bath remodel!

Enter Remodeling Magazine, which is one of the best trade magazines for Remodelers and for the last 23 years, has undertaken the research, leg work and math on an annual basis on the costs of a wide range of projects. Below are some examples of projects that we extracted from their data.  These are similar to  projects that @design REMODEL has completed for clients across Cape Cod.  

1. Basement Remodel $66,675
2. Bathroom Addition $40,753
3. Bathroom Remodel $17,460
4. Minor Kitchen Remodel $19,885
5. Major Kitchen Remodel $58,982 

For the most part, we have found that the project costs compiled by Remodeling Magazine are consistent with what we and others in the market are charging. While there is variation from project to project, the averages are right in line with reality.   

In many ways, the costs of remodeling have followed a similar trajectory of the cost of purchasing a new car or truck. Costs have escalated as manufacturers add new features, use new materials and add higher labor costs, research and development and regulatory compliance, it all adds up!

It's not all unusual for a new fully loaded SUV  to cost upwards of $60K much like the Major Kitchen remodel listed above at about $59K.  Yet, after 5 years, most vehicles are heavily depreciated and you are ready for a new one. The kitchen on the other hand, is only one quarter into it's life expectancy of 20 years!

Note: The costs above are averages for New England and are for projects considered "midrange" in scope and cost.

“© 2011 Hanley Wood, LLC. Complete data from the Remodeling 2011–12 Cost vs. Value Report can be downloaded free at www.costvsvalue.com.”

Cape Cod Kitchen Design & Usability Idea: Lighting

Lighting The Way

Many of the Cape Cod kitchens we remodel, usually need lighting upgrades as the existing lighting is insufficient.  I've seen kitchens lit by a single fixture located in the center of the ceiling and complimented by a small light over the stove. Lots of shadows in those kitchens!  Even worse, are kitchens lit up by industrial florescents that flood the space with blindness inducing bright, sterile, white light. 

The right lighting in a kitchen can make it safer to work in, easier to see (especially as we get older) and can create a warm, welcoming feel for everyday use or while entertaining family and friends. With forethought and good planning, this is easily accomplished in any size kitchen.

Let's review the types of lighting typically used in most kitchens.

Types of Lighting

Overall
This type of lighting is the most common, it can be a simple centralized fixture mounted on the ceiling or multiple fixtures either recessed or surfaced mounted and placed at different locations around the kitchen. Properly selected and placed, these fixtures can provide for most of your lighting needs.

Task
When you really need to shine light on your workspace, task lighting is the way to go. In a kitchen, this will usually mean lights mounted on the underside of the upper cabinets. Having lights properly mounted as such, will flood the counters and workspace with lots of light.  For task lighting, I would recommend that LED lighting be installed as it provide multiple benefits in reduced energy use, less heat shred then other types of fixtures and LED'S provide bright and dimmable lighting.  It's interesting to note  that the Starbucks coffee chain recently retrofitted their stores with LED lighting which significantly reduced their energy usage and costs. 

Also, task lighting can be a overall lighting fixture placed in a specific location. An example of this, is installing a light over the sink area with a high wattage bulb that floods the sink with light.

Mood
If your kitchen is large enough to function as a entertainment space, then the right mood lighting can create a warm inviting feel that may make it difficult for guests to leave. It's possible that the right lighting, will make food look and taste better. Although some dishes will be beyond rescue!  We often create mood lighting in a kitchen by simply replacing standard switches with dimmer type switch's which will allow you to control the intensity of the light.

Types of Fixtures

Ceiling Recessed is the most popular type of fixture used for overall lighting. They come in multiple sizes and style of trims.  (Trims are the decorative surround that the bulb sits inside.) You can also install low voltage lights especially if you want a small, low profile light fixture.  Usually you can use a flood type bulb or a focused beam bulb in these fixtures depending upon where and what you want to illuminate.

Be sure to install IC type recessed fixtures (As shown right) anywhere that they will come into contact with insulation. This allows for the insulation to be installed up to and over the fixture. Do not use non-IC fixtures below a non-heated space such as an attic. Doing so, essentially creates holes in your ceiling for heat to escape and will increase your homes energy usage and costs.

Surface Mounted.
We have had kitchen renovations here on Cape Cod where we have specified the use of surface mounted fixtures. In some cases, the period style and age of the home made it an appropriate choice and other times, high ceilings allowed for hanging fixtures.  Surface mounted fixtures can create style and bring color into your kitchen as shown in the picture to the left.  If a kitchen has an island, we usual install pendant lights over it and then install recessed lights in other areas of the kitchen.

Wall Sconces. Although rarely used in a kitchen, if you have the wall space and it's in an ideal location, a wall sconce can add style and set a mood. With a  dimmer, it can also function as a nightlight for those late night raids on the fridge!

Under Cabinet lighting works great in really lighting up workspaces and we often use dimmable LED lighting under our cabinets. One tip: Make sure the fixtures are mounted in the front of the cabinet not the back. Installing the fixture forward, brings more light out over the countertop and makes the fixture it's self less visible.

In Cabinet Lighting can also create a fabulous backdrop while showing off your Waterford Crystal collection. Typically we use dimmable "puck" style fixtures mounted on the ceiling of the cabinet. Another tip: Replace the wood shelves in the cabinet with glass shelves to really allow the light to shine through!

Here are some links to some of our favorite light fixtures.

Rejuvanation. Great period fixtures and fabulous quality!

Hubbington Forge. Very elegant old world fixtures.

Restoration Hardware. Love the mix of old and new.

Hopefully, I've lit the way forward in helping you select the right lighting for your new kitchen!  Feel free to comment or ask questions.

West Falmouth Kitchen Remodel: Start to Finish

This month finds us remodeling a kitchen in West Falmouth. This kitchen remodel will replace a typical eighties builder grade kitchen which primarily consisted of laminate cabinets and counter tops.  The redesign of the kitchen improves the look, layout and provides for more storage.

The Homeowners selected a frameless cabinet in a natural maple finish manufactured by Dewils.  The countertop will be granite and the apron front deep stainless steel sink will be a focal point in this kitchen.

Follow along as we document the progress, the challenges and the final outcome in this soon to be fabulous makeover!

Demolition of the old kitchen was tacked by the homeowners. They did such a good job, that I asked if they wanted to hire on as my demo crew!  When we arrived to start, the space was clean and ready for us to take over. The old cabinets and counter tops were recycled into storage/workspace in the garage.

One of the first things we did, was set up a dust wall with a zipper door as shown in the picture at left. This dust wall will help keep the spread of dust to a minimum. 

As shown in the picture above, our first task was to remove a section of the drywall so the Electrician could update the wiring and placement of assorted electrical devices. We also needed to provide a new backer or substrate for the tile back-splash to come. If you look at the picture closely, you will see that the seams will be hidden by the base and upper cabinets. We also removed just over the width of a standard drywall width of 48"  This will allow for faster and neater installation of new drywall. 

We also removed some of the plywood on the floor as it was damaged and weak in some spots.  Unfortunately at this point, we discovered that the sub-floor consisted of 1/2" plywood which is insufficient to support the new tile. A typical-sub floor will have at minimum, 3/4" thick plywood supported at all edges.

It was decided to install an additional layer of 1/2" plywood laid perpendicular to the existing sub floor to provide more support under the large/substantial tile that is going to be installed.

The picture above shows the exterior wall where we are preparing to open up and install an additional window while replacing the window on the left with a new Andersen gliding window.  We will need to relocate wiring and carefully measure placement of the new windows, as we plan to install several receptacles and switches between the window bottom and the top of the counter top. Space will be at a premium here!

Meanwhile on the exterior, we have constructed and set up staging over the stairs. In this picture, we have carefully removed the existing shingles for reuse around the new windows.  Soon this wall will show two new Andersen gliding windows!

Next up, is framing the window opening and preparing the flashing system for the windows.  As you can see in the photos below, we have added an opening for the new window and now we are preparing the openings with flashing on the sill and around the edges.  

The windows are now being set in the openings. At this point, we make sure the windows are level and square before securing them permanently in place.

Here is a picture of the exterior with the shingles that were saved during removal, now reinstalled around the new windows.

On the interior, the window framing is complete, the electrician has completed his rough wiring and new insulation has been installed as seen in the photos below. At this point, we have gotten the inspections we need from the town and are now ready for the installation of the sheetrock.

 Just before the sheet rock is installed, we cover the insulation on the exterior wall with 4 mills plastic which acts as a vapor barrier.  You can also see on the floor, that we have installed new plywood fastened with screws. This additional layer of plywood, will provide strong support for the new tile.

Coming up: Mud-time! The seams on the drywall will be coated with mud-aka Joint compound which will hide the seams.  We'll also be slapping mud or thinset down on the floor as we install new tile. 

In the above picture, you can see that the team from Spooner Drywall has worked their magic in patching the walls.   They also worked magic on the the ceilings which have the dreaded popcorn finish on them. In fact you cannot see any evidence where the ceiling was patched at all!

On the floor, the bright orange covering you see is a product called Ditra which is a provides great support under tile and also isolates the tile and grout from the movement of the wood below. Ditra is used by professional tile installers the world over.  Here, the Ditra is has been dry-fitted and is awaiting the tile setting to trowel down a layer of thinset mortar over the plywood. He will then embed the Ditra.  The tile setter will trowel more thinset onto the Ditra and set the tiles. Going through this multi step process will ensure a strong floor that resists movement and cracking.

Here is a snapshot of the cabinet install in progress.

The space above is for the sink base and you can see how planning ahead avoids many problems later.  1. We left out a section of tile to make it easier to install the water piping. If we did not, the plumber would have to drill through the tile inside a very confined space. 2. We drilled the holes for the water piping ahead of time. 3. These cabinets require a site built base and in building the base for the sink cabinet, we created a chase for the piping for the dishwasher to be threaded through in the right hand corner.

As shown above, the sink base is now installed and you can see that multiple holes have been made to accommodate the plumbing, electrical and the new sink.

The picture above shows the stainless steel sink now installed.  Coming up. Bumps in the Road!

As you can see in the pictures below, all of the cabinets are installed and the granite has been carefullly put in place and then we hit a couple of bumps in the road.

 Turns out the interior finish on this stove was defective. The homeowner decided that they wanted to replace it with another brand which in turn required returning the over the stove microwave. This delayed installing the backsplash tile. 

On top of this, the weight of the refrigerator punched a hole in the tile as we were shifting it in to place. If you look at the photo below, you can see a round hole punched through the travertine tile which is somewhat a delicate tile.  The kicker was, that the damaged tile was partly under the refrigerator side wood panel which would have to be removed so that the tile could be replaced. This in turn held up the completion of the upper cabinet moldings...

Fortunately, replacing the tile was a relatively simple if a bit messy task that was done quickly and efficiently by the tile installer.

At the start of the tile install for the backsplash, it was found that the varying thickness of the different tiles did not work well together. The homeowner decided to go with a different look as you can see in the pictures below. 

 All Wrapped Up and Done!

Cape Cod Kitchen Design & Usability Idea: Storage

 This is the first in a occasional series of tips about designing and making more user-friendly your new kitchen. 

Storage for pots and pans.

It makes me crazy to see kitchens with nothing but marching rows  upon rows of doors. Why? because it usually means that the cook is wasting time and steps every time they want to retrieve cookware from the cabinets below. 

In many kitchens, the cook will stoop down, open a cabinet door, reach in and roll out the tray within to select a piece of cookware. Then they have to roll the tray shut and close the door.  Not a big deal, yet multiply that many times over the course of cooking meals and it gets a bit annoying doing the multi-step.

My solution in many of the kitchens I've designed and built, is to specify a base cabinet or two as all drawers. Usually they are at 32"- 36" wide and have one shallow top drawer and two tall drawers below as shown in the picture to the left. This set-up allows for stacked storage of pots and pans and  in one motion allows you to open, view and retrieve your cookware.  Plus, having an entire base cabinet all drawers will break up the rows of marching doors.

Be sure to specify heavy duty full extension hardware on these drawers as the pots and pans can add up in weight.

 I also like doing this as it allows for a really wide top drawer to store cutlery and cooking tools all in one place and still keep them neat and organized.

There are a number of storage options for cookware such as pot racks and corner cabinets but just having nice big drawers appeals to my practical nature. Out of sight, out of mind, yet easy to see and use!

Wow! Something New In The Kitchen!

Recently, I came across something called The Galley and I was immediately intrigued.  While the concept of  Work Zones is not new, The Galley takes it to a new level in creating a better functioning and more efficent kitchen. If you love to cook and spend lots of time working in a kitchen, watch out!  because you are going to fall in love with and will want to have The Galley in your kitchen.

Last warning...watching the video will cause you to want to immediately remodel your kitchen...

Sitting In The Shower.

Sometimes after a long day of chasing the clock, it's heaven sent to be able to escape to a long hot shower while having some ME time. Yet in most showers, it's standing room only. Have you ever wished you could take a seat while  showering? Just to be able to sit back and let the hot water stream over you? 
Unfortunately the size and design of some shower stalls will not allow for any kind of seat.  If your shower is at least 34 x 34 in size, you maybe in luck. Before purchasing any kind of seat, be sure to measure your space to see if it will fit while someone is using the shower.

We've installed a number of fold up seats like the ones shown to the upper right. There are some advantages from using a fold up seat over a fixed or built-in seat.  Fold up seats take up less room, are less expensive to install vs. constructing a fixed or built in seat. Plus the wood seat is warmer to sit on then tile or stone.

One thing to keep in mind is that good structural support or blocking needs to be in place behind the shower prior to installing any kind of folding seat.  It may be possible to install the blocking behind the shower from an adjacent room.  Consult your local remodeling professional to see if this is feasible.

I recently discovered in one of my professional trade magazines,  the Serena Seat which is pictured to the right.  It's clean look and ease of use had an immediate appeal. It's easy to install on a properly prepared shower wall and has a back rest to lean against. When folded up it only has a 3-inch profile. It also has a precision tension hinge which prevents the seat from accidentally falling down.  The wood is brazilian walnut which is up to 3 times stronger then teak.  

Fixing a Remuddle: A Bathroom Remodel In Sandwich MA

We just wrapped up a bathroom remodel in Sandwich.  This was interesting as we were undoing the previous remuddle which the homeowners absolutely disliked.  This tiny bathroom had a massive 6' whirlpool tub that drained the hot water heater when it was only half full. The size of the tub also led to knocking knees every time someone used the toilet!

Danger! Floor Collapse Ahead...!
Interestingly enough, when we demolished the bathroom interior, we found baby blue chips from the cast iron tub that had previously been occupied by the whirlpool tub. This tub also took up precious closet space. During the demo work, we found floor joists that had been mindlessly hacked apart thus weakening the floor structure. The substrate behind the previous tub/shower surround was awful as it was simply a mix of sheetrock and cement board with no water-proofing at all!

New Archer Tub From Kohler
We installed a new Kohler Archer tub in the original location and rebuilt the closet. This closet rebuild provided the homeowners with much needed storage space.  Around the tub and on the ceiling, we installed Durarock cement board followed by a roll on waterproofing membrane.  Making for a water tight tub/shower space.

The homeowners selected 8x8 gloss white tiles complimented by a narrow row of glass tile.  This tile was placed
around the tub as well as on the ceiling.  On the floor, we installed a Ditra isolation membrane followed by a 12 x12 floor tile. This was finished by a curved shower rod. This shower rod created more room in the tub/shower when needed.

Snakes N' Sparks!
The electrical work was a bit of a snakes nest as the electrician had to eliminate the illegally buried junction boxes and untangle the mess left behind.  The switches for the bathroom were moved back into the bathroom where they belonged.  Time was also taken, to relocate the plug at the sink at a taller height so that it was no longer practically sitting on the countertop. We also installed a Panasonic fan/light combo that is whisper quite. This replaced the F15 engine that was mounted in the ceiling.  

The wood work consisted of a new closet door, shelving in the closet and replacing all the door and window trim. The existing vanity was re-installed and topped off with a new white stone top containing an under mount sink bowl.  The bathroom and closet were painted out and the plumber installed the shower trim, faucet and toilet.

Fast N' Furious
This remodeled remuddle was completed in less then 15 working days and provided the happy homeowners in Sandwich, with a new bathroom that  was roomier and far more functional.

Happy Homeowner
The homeowner posted the following review on Angie's List.

"We are very happy we chose the right person to remodel our bathroom. John impressed us in many ways. He was very thorough. He kept the worksite and our house clean. He was always upbeat. The fact he likes his work shined through. We also liked the fact that he did much of the work himself. The workers he did bring in shared his work ethic; they were all excellent. Many contractors do an "OK" job, John and his team did an excellent job."

Kohler Flipside Shower

We just installed a Kohler Flipside shower head and it's a pretty neat product as shown on the following fun video!

Website Update and Project iPlanner in the Works.

Apologies!  Our website is a bit of a mess right now as we update it to improve it's relevancy and remove more of the clutter.  We trying to follow the mantra of:  less is more.

We are also in the process of creating a remodeling iPlanner for anyone looking to remodel their bath or kitchen. It will allow you to really think about what you want your new bathroom or kitchen to look like.  You will be able to organize your wants and needs for your project.  We'll even include a handy contractor selection list to help you evaluate each contractor.

If you are interested in getting your own complimentary copy of our bath and kitchen remodeling iPlanner, send an email request to JSC@AtDesignRemodel.com and once it's completed, we will send you your copy.

Bathroom Update- A Clear Idea...

 

Have you ever stepped out of your tub/shower to find that your bathroom floor is soaking wet because you forgot to pull back tight to the wall, the end of a shower curtain? 

Does it bother you when you are trying to clean out the tracks of bypass glass doors or finding that the doors and tracks get in the way when taking a bath or when you have kids in the tub?

Several years ago, I discovered  a solution for the above problems while remodeling a small bathroom for my family when we were living in Cataumet. During the remodel, I had installed a deep tub that was doubling as a shower and I had decided that I did not want a shower curtain or liner as they are called elsewhere.  And installing bypass doors seemed too confining, even with frameless doors. 

This solution I discovered is called a shower screen. Simply put, it is a glass panel about half the width of the tub length that is hinged to the same wall as the water controls.  This is an elegant solution that will keep water in the shower while allowing access to the the tub. It also has the added benefit of making a smaller space seem larger.

One thing to keep in mind is that you will need to allow room for the screen to swing out, which can be a challenge in bathrooms where the toilet is located right next to the tub. It maybe worth relocating the water control/spouts  to the opposite end of the tub/shower allowing for better access.

If you would like to find out more about shower screens, visit our online supplier ArkShowers.com

We can also help you determine if this is a good solution for your bathroom.

Photo Credit. ArkShowers.com